We thoroughly rule them out by checking if the cabin wiring harness is melted, if the seat belts have water stains or mold, if there is unusual rust or debris in the seat tracks and cigarette lighter, and by verifying with the insurance company for any "total loss claims." These two types of cars are an absolute sales ban for us.

Start with the paperwork: the vehicle registration certificate lists every ownership transfer, and the service book plus dealer maintenance records help confirm mileage. For digital verification, ask the seller for a live video walkaround plus a diagnostic scan report showing the ECU-recorded mileage, which is hard to manipulate. For EVs, request a battery state-of-health (SOH) report — it reveals real usage patterns far better than the odometer. Finally, a pre-shipment inspection by a third party should include structural checks (pillars, chassis rails) to rule out accident repairs. Build "no major accident, no flood or fire damage" into your purchase contract with a refund clause if the inspection contradicts it.

A Certificate of Origin (C/O) is an official document stating where the vehicle was manufactured. Customs authorities use it to decide which tariff rates and trade agreements apply to your import. Why it matters: many countries offer preferential tariffs for certain origins. With a valid C/O, such as the ASEAN-China Form E or a GSP Form A, you may pay reduced or zero duty. Without it, you typically pay the standard, higher rate. The certificate must match the vehicle exactly: VIN, make, model and invoice details. It is usually issued by the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT) or customs authorities. Practical tips: request the C/O before shipment, because adding it later is slow; check that your country's customs accepts the specific C/O format; and confirm with your broker whether your vehicle category qualifies for preferential rates. This single document can save you thousands in duty.