Used cars are classified under HS heading 8703 (motor vehicles for transport of persons), with the last four digits determined by engine type and size. Gasoline cars usually fall in 8703.21–8703.80 depending on displacement; pure EVs fall under 8703.80; hybrids have their own subheadings. The duty amount depends on your country's tariff schedule: 1. Most countries charge duty on the CIF value (car price + freight + insurance), not the FOB price. 2. Many developing markets levy higher duties on used vehicles than new ones, and some add a surcharge based on age — older cars can cost significantly more to clear. 3. After duty, you typically pay VAT/GST on the CIF + duty total, plus port and customs fees. Practical tips: ask your exporter to state the exact HS code on the commercial invoice and confirm it with a local customs broker before shipping. A wrong code can trigger reclassification, penalties, or delays. Also budget for any excise tax tied to engine capacity — in several markets a 2.5L car clears far cheaper than a 3.5L one.

Customs clearance at destination is usually handled by a licensed customs broker, not the exporter. You can hire one yourself or use a broker recommended by your shipping agent. The typical flow: your broker files the import declaration using the documents the exporter must provide — the commercial invoice, packing list, bill of lading, and the certificate of origin. Depending on your country's rules, you will also need to pay import duty, VAT or sales tax, and any excise or environmental levies before the car is released. Things that commonly delay clearance: mismatched VIN numbers between documents, missing pre-shipment inspection certificates (required in some African and Middle Eastern countries), or non-compliance with your country's used-car import age limits. Budget 3–10 working days for clearance after the vessel arrives, plus storage fees if documents are incomplete. Tip: send all documents to your broker for review before the ship departs China — fixing errors at origin is much cheaper than demurrage at destination.

Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.