SOH (State of Health) measures the battery's remaining capacity as a percentage of its original capacity. Two EVs with the same mileage can have very different SOH depending on charging habits and climate exposure, and since the battery represents 30-50% of a used EV's value, the SOH number is effectively the real price tag. A proper certificate includes current SOH percentage, cell voltage balance, charge cycle counts, battery management system fault codes, and often a projected range estimate. In hot-climate markets like the Gulf, a degraded battery degrades even faster, so a documented SOH above 85-90% is strongly recommended. Exporters who provide verified SOH certificates close deals faster and command better prices, so treat the certificate as a core purchase document, not an extra.

Most Chinese brands provide owner manuals in Chinese only, but you can usually get an English version through three channels: ask the exporter (many keep PDF copies), download from the brand's overseas website, or use the car's built-in infotainment system which is often switchable to English. For parts, start with the VIN. Send it to the exporter and ask for the OEM part numbers you need — many parts are shared across models sold domestically and abroad. Common wear items (filters, brake pads, suspension components) are increasingly stocked by international parts platforms and can be shipped within days. For body panels and brand-specific electronics, ordering directly from China via the exporter is often the only option, so factor a 2–6 week wait into your planning. Practical tip: before buying, ask the exporter for a parts price list for the specific model. If they cannot supply one, that is a warning sign about after-sales support. Keep a small stock of common consumables in advance to avoid downtime.

Ask the exporter for a paint thickness gauge report, or request a live video where they measure the car in front of you. What to look for: · Factory paint on most Chinese cars measures 80–120 microns. Readings above 150–200 microns on a panel usually mean repainting; above 300 microns often means body filler (putty) underneath. · Inconsistent readings between panels (e.g., left door 95µm, right door 180µm) suggest the right side was repaired. · Check gaps between panels (doors, hood, trunk). Uneven gaps or misaligned headlights/bumper clips point to past collision repairs. · Look for overspray on rubber seals, plastic trim, or inside door jambs — a clear sign of repainting. · Check bolt heads on fenders, doors, and hood. Wrench marks or fresh paint over bolts mean the panel was removed. Combine these checks with an OBD scan for airbag or crash-related fault codes. Any repainting should be declared by the seller; if discovered undeclared, you have grounds to renegotiate or reject the car.