Definitely. Lifting the chassis is a mandatory part of our standards. The report will specifically show whether there are oil stains on the front and rear shock absorber cylinders, if the rubber boots of the lower control arm ball joints are torn, and if the steering tie rods are loose or deformed.

Many car owners do not have their first maintenance done at authorized dealerships, leading to gaps in early data. In such cases, we do not blindly trust the odometer; instead, we analyze the tire production dates and wear levels, as well as the depth of grooves on the brake disc edges, using the "gold standard" of physical wear to infer the intensity of early use.

Flood cars are common after heavy rain seasons, and the damage often shows up months later in the wiring and electronics. Here is how to check before you buy. First, ask for the insurance claim history using the VIN. Flood claims are usually recorded, and any mention of water damage, interior drying, or electrical repair should stop the deal. Second, inspect the interior yourself or via video call. Pull up the carpet edges and look for mud residue, water marks, or rust on seat rails and seatbelt buckles. Seatbelts that retract slowly or have a musty smell were often submerged. Third, check hidden cavities: the spare tire well, glove box, and under the trunk lining. Silt or a tide line there is a strong flood indicator. Fourth, look for condensation behind the instrument cluster and inside the headlights. Persistent fog in the lamps is a classic sign of water immersion. Finally, an OBD scan can help: flood cars often store scattered error codes across unrelated modules (airbag, ABS, body control) because corroded connectors corrupt the network. If several of these signs appear together, walk away. Flood damage is almost never worth repairing, and it will haunt the car's electronics for its whole life.