Flood cars are common after heavy rain seasons, and the damage often shows up months later in the wiring and electronics. Here is how to check before you buy. First, ask for the insurance claim history using the VIN. Flood claims are usually recorded, and any mention of water damage, interior drying, or electrical repair should stop the deal. Second, inspect the interior yourself or via video call. Pull up the carpet edges and look for mud residue, water marks, or rust on seat rails and seatbelt buckles. Seatbelts that retract slowly or have a musty smell were often submerged. Third, check hidden cavities: the spare tire well, glove box, and under the trunk lining. Silt or a tide line there is a strong flood indicator. Fourth, look for condensation behind the instrument cluster and inside the headlights. Persistent fog in the lamps is a classic sign of water immersion. Finally, an OBD scan can help: flood cars often store scattered error codes across unrelated modules (airbag, ABS, body control) because corroded connectors corrupt the network. If several of these signs appear together, walk away. Flood damage is almost never worth repairing, and it will haunt the car's electronics for its whole life.

Used cars are classified under HS heading 8703 (motor vehicles for transport of persons), with the last four digits determined by engine type and size. Gasoline cars usually fall in 8703.21–8703.80 depending on displacement; pure EVs fall under 8703.80; hybrids have their own subheadings. The duty amount depends on your country's tariff schedule: 1. Most countries charge duty on the CIF value (car price + freight + insurance), not the FOB price. 2. Many developing markets levy higher duties on used vehicles than new ones, and some add a surcharge based on age — older cars can cost significantly more to clear. 3. After duty, you typically pay VAT/GST on the CIF + duty total, plus port and customs fees. Practical tips: ask your exporter to state the exact HS code on the commercial invoice and confirm it with a local customs broker before shipping. A wrong code can trigger reclassification, penalties, or delays. Also budget for any excise tax tied to engine capacity — in several markets a 2.5L car clears far cheaper than a 3.5L one.

A proper inspection covers roughly 200 checkpoints in four areas: 1. Body and paint: panel gaps, paint thickness readings, signs of accident repair. 2. Mechanical: engine health report, transmission behavior, suspension, underbody on a lift, fluid condition. 3. Electronics: full OBD diagnostic scan, airbag history, all lights and comfort features. 4. Documentation: VIN matches everywhere, no lien or seizure record. You can book directly with inspection companies in Guangzhou, Shanghai, or Tianjin (typically USD 100–250) without going through the seller—give them the yard address and car details, and they send a report with photos and video within 1–2 days. Pay the inspection fee yourself so the inspector answers to you, not the exporter.