The industry-standard structure protects both sides. Pay 20-30% deposit after signing the contract and verifying the exporter's license—never more. The balance is paid only after your independent inspection report confirms the car matches the contract, ideally against a copy of the bill of lading so the exporter can't ship a different vehicle. For extra protection, tie payments to milestones: deposit on contract, second tranche after inspection passes, final payment when shipping documents are released. Some buyers use escrow services or trade assurance platforms for the first transaction with a new supplier; fees run 1-3% but are worth it for large amounts. Always pay to a corporate bank account matching the exporter's registered name. Keep every agreement in the written contract—verbal promises like 'we'll fix that before shipping' are unenforceable. If an exporter demands 50%+ upfront or full payment before inspection, walk away; that structure leaves you with no leverage.

Yes, all external lighting sources, including low beams, high beams, fog lights, daytime running lights, reverse lights, and brake lights, are included in the mandatory power-on testing.

The 12V battery is small but critical: when it dies, the car cannot start, unlock, or charge. Used EVs often have weak 12V batteries because they sit on lots for months. Before shipping, ask the exporter to: 1. Measure the battery voltage after the car has rested overnight. It should read around 12.4-12.8V; anything under 12.2V means the battery is degraded. 2. Start the car and check that the charging system holds 13.8-14.4V, confirming the DC-DC converter works. 3. Scan for stored fault codes related to low voltage, which indicate the battery has been deeply discharged repeatedly. During ocean freight, the battery slowly self-discharges. Ask that it be disconnected or kept on a maintainer before loading, and budget for a replacement after arrival if the battery is over 3 years old. A new 12V battery costs little compared to being stranded at the port.