The industry-standard structure protects both sides. Pay 20-30% deposit after signing the contract and verifying the exporter's license—never more. The balance is paid only after your independent inspection report confirms the car matches the contract, ideally against a copy of the bill of lading so the exporter can't ship a different vehicle. For extra protection, tie payments to milestones: deposit on contract, second tranche after inspection passes, final payment when shipping documents are released. Some buyers use escrow services or trade assurance platforms for the first transaction with a new supplier; fees run 1-3% but are worth it for large amounts. Always pay to a corporate bank account matching the exporter's registered name. Keep every agreement in the written contract—verbal promises like 'we'll fix that before shipping' are unenforceable. If an exporter demands 50%+ upfront or full payment before inspection, walk away; that structure leaves you with no leverage.

Most exporters offer a limited warranty of 30 to 90 days covering major mechanical failures (engine, gearbox, electric motor), but only if you can prove the fault existed before shipment. Cosmetic issues, wear-and-tear parts (brakes, tires, clutch) and damage caused by improper local maintenance are almost always excluded. What is realistic to claim: · Engine or transmission failure confirmed by a licensed workshop within the warranty window, with a diagnostic report. · Undeclared accident or flood damage discovered after arrival (strongest case, keep the inspection report and photos). How to protect yourself: 1. Get the warranty terms written into the contract, including claim procedure and response time. 2. Have the car inspected locally immediately upon arrival and keep all records. 3. Communicate claims in writing (email) with photos and reports attached. Treat the warranty as a backup, not the main protection. A thorough pre-shipment third-party inspection matters far more than a paper warranty.

A realistic budget has several layers beyond the vehicle price. First, inland logistics in China: moving the car to the export port typically costs $300-$800. Second, export handling: inspection, customs declaration and paperwork usually add $500-$1,000. Third, ocean freight. A 20ft container to most destinations runs $1,200-$3,000 depending on route; RoRo shipping can be cheaper for driveable cars. Add marine insurance, usually 0.3%-0.5% of the car value. Fourth, destination charges: port handling, customs duties, VAT/GST and local registration fees. These vary widely; some countries charge duties of 20%-80% of the vehicle value plus an excise based on engine capacity. Finally, any compliance work: inspection certificates, modifications to meet local standards, or homologation. Ask your exporter for a full CIF quote and have a local customs broker confirm destination taxes before you commit.