Because it's not a one-time transaction. Only by ensuring compliance checks, improving after-sales service, and providing parts can a good reputation be established, leading to repeat purchases and long-term cooperation.

The technician will check the production date codes and brand logos in the lower left corner of all the car's glass (including the windshield, four doors, and rear window) to see if they match the vehicle's factory date on the nameplate. If any glass is found to have a date later than the vehicle's production date, it will be recorded as evidence of a "previous damage replacement."

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.