Battery condition is the single most important — and most expensive — variable in a used EV. Ask for a State of Health (SOH) report: in China, dealers and authorized service centers can read it via the manufacturer diagnostic system. It shows remaining capacity as a percentage of the original. Rule of thumb: above 90% is excellent, 85-90% is acceptable for the price, below 80% needs a serious price cut or battery refurbishment. Also get the battery's full charge and discharge history (次数) — a 3-year-old car with 800 fast-charge cycles has lived a harder life than one with 200. Physically, inspect the battery pack enclosure on a lift for dents, corrosion, or coolant leaks. Check that DC fast charging works during a test charge. Finally, verify the battery is not covered by an open recall or replacement program — this is both a risk and sometimes a free upgrade.

Once the car system (especially in a closed ecosystem) undergoes a major version upgrade, its bootloader is usually locked, preventing downgrades. If this happens, there is basically no solution in an overseas environment. Therefore, we strongly warn: do not blindly insert a USB drive to upgrade while offline.

Unless the previous owner retained the original parts and provided them to us, we usually keep the existing modifications and clearly state in the report "includes non-original modifications." Since the standards for illegal modifications vary by country, buyers should assess whether these modifications can legally pass inspection in their destination country.