Ask the exporter for a paint thickness gauge report, or request a live video where they measure the car in front of you. What to look for: · Factory paint on most Chinese cars measures 80–120 microns. Readings above 150–200 microns on a panel usually mean repainting; above 300 microns often means body filler (putty) underneath. · Inconsistent readings between panels (e.g., left door 95µm, right door 180µm) suggest the right side was repaired. · Check gaps between panels (doors, hood, trunk). Uneven gaps or misaligned headlights/bumper clips point to past collision repairs. · Look for overspray on rubber seals, plastic trim, or inside door jambs — a clear sign of repainting. · Check bolt heads on fenders, doors, and hood. Wrench marks or fresh paint over bolts mean the panel was removed. Combine these checks with an OBD scan for airbag or crash-related fault codes. Any repainting should be declared by the seller; if discovered undeclared, you have grounds to renegotiate or reject the car.

Plan for roughly 25-40% on top of the vehicle price. The main items are: 1. Pre-purchase: deposit (10-30%), third-party inspection fee (100-300 USD). 2. In China: inland trucking to the port, export declaration fees. 3. Shipping: ocean freight (container 20ft usually 1,500-4,000 USD depending on destination), marine insurance (about 0.3-0.5% of car value). 4. In your country: customs duty, VAT/GST, port handling and storage, customs broker, quarantine or pre-shipment inspection if required, registration and plates. Always ask the exporter for an itemized landed-cost estimate for your specific port before paying the deposit, and confirm which Incoterm the quote is based on (FOB, CIF or DDP makes a big difference).

Most exporters offer a limited warranty of 30 to 90 days covering major mechanical failures (engine, gearbox, electric motor), but only if you can prove the fault existed before shipment. Cosmetic issues, wear-and-tear parts (brakes, tires, clutch) and damage caused by improper local maintenance are almost always excluded. What is realistic to claim: · Engine or transmission failure confirmed by a licensed workshop within the warranty window, with a diagnostic report. · Undeclared accident or flood damage discovered after arrival (strongest case, keep the inspection report and photos). How to protect yourself: 1. Get the warranty terms written into the contract, including claim procedure and response time. 2. Have the car inspected locally immediately upon arrival and keep all records. 3. Communicate claims in writing (email) with photos and reports attached. Treat the warranty as a backup, not the main protection. A thorough pre-shipment third-party inspection matters far more than a paper warranty.