Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

Ask the exporter for a copy of the vehicle registration certificate (机动车登记证书). It lists every owner change and any mortgage registration. If the car was financed, there will be a lien entry; make sure a release entry follows it. You can also verify the VIN against public records through the traffic management platform (12123) — a legitimate exporter can generate a status report on the spot. Check that the seller's company name on the invoice matches the registered owner. For extra safety, require a written statement that the vehicle is free of liens, loans, court seizures, and lease agreements, and wire payment only to the company's corporate account after ownership is transferred to the export entity. That sequence — transfer first, payment second — is your strongest protection.

Temperature differences during sea transport can easily trigger the tire pressure warning. After inflating the tires to the standard pressure (usually 2.5 Bar), most vehicles will automatically clear the warning after driving a few kilometers; some models require manually clicking "Tire Pressure Reset" in the "Vehicle Settings" on the central screen.