For older vehicles or those used in high temperature and humidity areas, we will focus on opening the hood to check if the insulation of the wiring harness in the high-temperature area of the engine compartment is cracked or brittle, to identify potential short circuit risks that could lead to spontaneous combustion.

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

We will provide a detailed logistics and insurance cost table from the port of origin to the destination port, but since we do not have access to the rapidly changing tariff dynamics of multiple countries, we cannot provide an absolute "Delivered Duty Paid (DDP)" calculation.