RoRo (roll-on/roll-off) is cheaper and faster for a single car—you drive it onto the vessel and it is secured on the car deck. Container shipping costs more but offers better protection from weather, salt air, and handling damage, and allows you to load spare parts inside the car. Marine insurance is essential either way. Standard cover protects total loss and major damage, but read the exclusions: many policies do not cover pre-existing mechanical faults, cosmetic scratches below a deductible, or damage caused by improper securing (lashings). Ask for ICC(A) or All Risks coverage rather than basic total-loss-only policies. Practical tips: 1. Photograph and video the car thoroughly at loading, with the VIN visible 2. Note existing scratches on the bill of lading 3. Inspect immediately at destination—claims windows are often 3-7 days 4. For EVs, declare the battery; some insurers charge a supplement or exclude battery damage altogether

Used cars are classified under HS heading 8703 (motor vehicles for transport of persons), with the last four digits determined by engine type and size. Gasoline cars usually fall in 8703.21–8703.80 depending on displacement; pure EVs fall under 8703.80; hybrids have their own subheadings. The duty amount depends on your country's tariff schedule: 1. Most countries charge duty on the CIF value (car price + freight + insurance), not the FOB price. 2. Many developing markets levy higher duties on used vehicles than new ones, and some add a surcharge based on age — older cars can cost significantly more to clear. 3. After duty, you typically pay VAT/GST on the CIF + duty total, plus port and customs fees. Practical tips: ask your exporter to state the exact HS code on the commercial invoice and confirm it with a local customs broker before shipping. A wrong code can trigger reclassification, penalties, or delays. Also budget for any excise tax tied to engine capacity — in several markets a 2.5L car clears far cheaper than a 3.5L one.

Odometer rollback happens everywhere, so never trust the dashboard number alone. Cross-check at least three sources: 1. Maintenance records: Chinese 4S dealerships keep service logs tied to the VIN. Ask the exporter for screenshots showing recorded mileage at each visit — the numbers should rise consistently. 2. Inspection reports: China requires periodic emissions/safety inspections, and the mileage is logged at each one. The exporter can pull the car's inspection history. 3. Tire and wear clues: Compare the claimed mileage with brake pedal rubber, steering wheel shine, seat bolster wear, and the tire production dates. A car showing 30,000 km with a polished steering wheel and second set of tires is suspicious. Also check the dashboard for uneven digits or scratches around the odometer area in photos. If maintenance and inspection records roughly agree, the reading is usually trustworthy; if the seller refuses to share records, treat the mileage as unknown and negotiate accordingly.