Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

A typical transaction has six steps. 1. Selection: you confirm the vehicle through photos, a video walkaround, an inspection report and the VIN. 2. Deposit: most exporters ask 20%-30% to reserve the car. Pay by bank transfer to the company's corporate account, never a personal one. 3. Inspection: an independent pre-shipment inspection verifies the condition; you receive the report before paying the balance. 4. Balance payment: usually due before loading. Request the booking confirmation and container number. 5. Shipping: the exporter sends you the draft bill of lading for checking, then the original documents by courier. 6. Arrival: you clear customs with the invoice, C/O, B/L and inspection certificate, then register the vehicle. Total timeline is usually 2-6 weeks. Use payment methods with recourse (T/T or escrow) and keep every contract and receipt.

Experience turbo lag and power surge during road tests; check for significant oil accumulation at the turbo intake and intercooler connections (slight oil vapor is normal); and use OBD to read the real-time boost pressure peak to see if it meets factory settings.