Use credit check apps (like Check Doctor or Ant Queen) to pull the complete accident record.

A Chinese VIN is 17 characters, and decoding it takes minutes but reveals a lot. Positions 1-3 are the World Manufacturer Identifier. Cars sold domestically in China usually start with L (for example LFV for FAW-VW, LGB for Dongfeng Nissan), which tells you it was built in China rather than imported. Position 10 is the model year letter or number. Positions 4-8 describe the model, body type, and drivetrain, so you can verify the seller's description matches the actual car. Cross-check the VIN in three places: the plate at the base of the windshield, the sticker on the door jamb or B-pillar, and the registration certificate. Mismatched VINs or signs the plates were re-riveted are a serious red flag for a cloned or rebuilt vehicle. Use the VIN to pull a history report from a Chinese data provider and to verify recall status with the manufacturer. Any seller who hesitates to share the full VIN is telling you something important.

The standard set is: 1. Commercial invoice and sales contract - issued by the exporter; the basis for customs valuation. 2. Packing list - exporter; details the vehicle and any spare parts shipped with it. 3. Bill of lading - issued by the shipping line; your proof of ownership of the cargo. Never pay the full balance before receiving at least a copy of it. 4. Certificate of origin - issued by the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT); some countries require it for preferential duty rates. 5. Export customs declaration - Chinese customs; confirms the car was legally exported. 6. Pre-shipment inspection report - issued by companies like Intertek, SGS or the EAA scheme, if your country mandates it. Ask the exporter for scanned copies of all documents before shipping so you or your broker can verify completeness.