Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

If there is a minor leak in the lines due to bumps, it is possible that the cooling may not work upon arrival. This is a normal physical loss. The cost of vacuuming, pressure testing, and recharging refrigerant at a local auto repair shop is low and is the buyer's responsibility.

Absolutely. Even if you clear customs through gray channels, local commercial insurance companies will refuse to cover third-party liability insurance due to the vehicle not complying with national traffic laws; additionally, the vehicle will definitely fail the annual safety inspection at the local DMV.