A typical safe flow looks like this: 1. Sourcing: you pick a car from listings; the exporter confirms availability, sends photos, video and a condition report. 2. Contract: a written sales contract stating VIN, price, included costs, inspection standards and delivery terms (FOB or CIF). 3. Deposit: usually 10–30% after you or a third party verify the car. Pay to a company account, never personal. 4. Inspection: independent pre-shipment inspection; you approve the report before shipping. 5. Balance payment: due before shipment, against copy of the bill of lading. 6. Shipping and documents: exporter sends original documents by courier; you track the vessel. 7. Arrival: your customs agent clears the car, you pay duties and collect it. Timeline: typically 3–8 weeks from deposit to arrival, depending on route. Any exporter pushing for 100% upfront payment should be treated as a red flag.

Absolutely not. The aging and cracking of rubber parts are inevitable over time and are a normal manifestation of vehicle depreciation. Our compensation only covers sudden and catastrophic mechanical failures, such as engine cylinder scoring or transmission gear breakage.

Flood cars are common after heavy rain seasons, and the damage often shows up months later in the wiring and electronics. Here is how to check before you buy. First, ask for the insurance claim history using the VIN. Flood claims are usually recorded, and any mention of water damage, interior drying, or electrical repair should stop the deal. Second, inspect the interior yourself or via video call. Pull up the carpet edges and look for mud residue, water marks, or rust on seat rails and seatbelt buckles. Seatbelts that retract slowly or have a musty smell were often submerged. Third, check hidden cavities: the spare tire well, glove box, and under the trunk lining. Silt or a tide line there is a strong flood indicator. Fourth, look for condensation behind the instrument cluster and inside the headlights. Persistent fog in the lamps is a classic sign of water immersion. Finally, an OBD scan can help: flood cars often store scattered error codes across unrelated modules (airbag, ABS, body control) because corroded connectors corrupt the network. If several of these signs appear together, walk away. Flood damage is almost never worth repairing, and it will haunt the car's electronics for its whole life.