A compliant shipment from China includes a standard document set. Verify you receive all of them before the ship departs, because correcting documents mid-transit is slow and expensive. The core set: commercial invoice, bill of lading (original, if your country requires presentation for customs), packing list, certificate of origin, and the export customs declaration. For used cars, also expect the Chinese registration certificate copy, deregistration proof, and a condition/inspection report. Some destinations require additional certificates — GCC states need GSO conformity, EU countries need COC or individual approval, several African nations require BESC/ECTN tracking numbers issued before loading. Your customs broker will typically need the invoice and bill of lading at minimum, plus proof of vehicle age and emissions where age limits apply. Ask your exporter for scanned copies the day the vessel sails, not when it arrives: pre-clearance can cut port storage fees significantly. One caution: the invoice value must match your payment records. Under-declaring to save duties is customs fraud in most countries and risks seizure.

Used cars are classified under HS heading 8703 (motor vehicles for transport of persons), with the last four digits determined by engine type and size. Gasoline cars usually fall in 8703.21–8703.80 depending on displacement; pure EVs fall under 8703.80; hybrids have their own subheadings. The duty amount depends on your country's tariff schedule: 1. Most countries charge duty on the CIF value (car price + freight + insurance), not the FOB price. 2. Many developing markets levy higher duties on used vehicles than new ones, and some add a surcharge based on age — older cars can cost significantly more to clear. 3. After duty, you typically pay VAT/GST on the CIF + duty total, plus port and customs fees. Practical tips: ask your exporter to state the exact HS code on the commercial invoice and confirm it with a local customs broker before shipping. A wrong code can trigger reclassification, penalties, or delays. Also budget for any excise tax tied to engine capacity — in several markets a 2.5L car clears far cheaper than a 3.5L one.

Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.