The technician will check the production date codes and brand logos in the lower left corner of all the car's glass (including the windshield, four doors, and rear window) to see if they match the vehicle's factory date on the nameplate. If any glass is found to have a date later than the vehicle's production date, it will be recorded as evidence of a "previous damage replacement."

If the car has been maintained at an authorized dealer, we can extract the desensitized official maintenance history (including entry time, mileage, and maintenance items) through a paid third-party data provider and provide it to you. If some year records are missing, we will honestly inform you that the "records are incomplete."

For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.