The technician will start the vehicle and turn on the air conditioning system, measuring the actual temperature at the vents at the lowest and highest settings with a thermometer; at the same time, they will connect a manifold pressure gauge to check if the refrigerant pressure in the high and low pressure lines is within the normal range, determining if there is a chronic refrigerant leak.

If the car has been maintained at an authorized dealer, we can extract the desensitized official maintenance history (including entry time, mileage, and maintenance items) through a paid third-party data provider and provide it to you. If some year records are missing, we will honestly inform you that the "records are incomplete."

Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.