If the buyer's country is under international sanctions, or if the buyer fails to provide a legitimate source of funds leading to the bank returning the payment, all transfer fees and exchange rate losses incurred during this period are to be borne entirely by the buyer.

Rules differ by country. Many markets limit the age of imported used cars (commonly 3-5 years), require left-hand drive, and set minimum emission standards such as Euro 4, 5 or 6. Some regions additionally require a local conformity certificate before the car arrives. Practical steps before any deposit: check your customs authority's official website, or spend 20 minutes with a local customs broker who imports vehicles regularly; give the exporter your country's requirements and the VIN, and ask for proof of the car's emission level (China's standards map roughly to Euro equivalents); confirm the exact model was legally exportable from China. A short verification call at the start can prevent the car being refused entry — or impounded — months later.

The industry-standard structure protects both sides. Pay 20-30% deposit after signing the contract and verifying the exporter's license—never more. The balance is paid only after your independent inspection report confirms the car matches the contract, ideally against a copy of the bill of lading so the exporter can't ship a different vehicle. For extra protection, tie payments to milestones: deposit on contract, second tranche after inspection passes, final payment when shipping documents are released. Some buyers use escrow services or trade assurance platforms for the first transaction with a new supplier; fees run 1-3% but are worth it for large amounts. Always pay to a corporate bank account matching the exporter's registered name. Keep every agreement in the written contract—verbal promises like 'we'll fix that before shipping' are unenforceable. If an exporter demands 50%+ upfront or full payment before inspection, walk away; that structure leaves you with no leverage.