Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

If the buyer's country is under international sanctions, or if the buyer fails to provide a legitimate source of funds leading to the bank returning the payment, all transfer fees and exchange rate losses incurred during this period are to be borne entirely by the buyer.

Yes. We will use a professional diagnostic tool to scan all vehicle systems, including the Engine Control Unit (ECU), Transmission Control Module (TCM), Anti-lock Braking System (ABS), and Airbag Module (SRS), and provide English screenshots of all current and historical Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).