A proper inspection relies on equipment, not just eyes. The inspector should use a paint thickness gauge to measure 50-60 points across body panels; original paint is typically 80-150 microns. An OBD diagnostic scanner reads stored and pending fault codes across all control units, and for EVs it also reads battery state of health and charge cycle counts. The car must go on a lift for the underbody check: frame rails, suspension components, oil leaks and accident repair marks are only visible from below. A battery tester checks starting voltage and charging system health, and a tread depth gauge documents tire condition. Ask for the report to include raw readings and dated photos rather than a simple pass/fail summary - that is what makes it verifiable.

Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

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