Ask for a specific set of photos and video taken with the car on a lift — generic walk-around videos will not show what matters. Request close-ups of: the sills (rocker panels) on both sides, front and rear subframes, suspension mounting points, brake lines, and the floor pan under the carpets. Surface rust on bolts is normal; bubbling paint, flaking metal or fresh undercoat sprayed over corrosion are warning signs. Also check for flood damage, a common hidden problem: look at the spare wheel well for water marks or mud, pull up the trunk carpet, and check the seat rails and seat belt buckles for rust or silt. A musty smell reported by the inspector is a red flag. A trustworthy exporter will provide a lift inspection report listing measured paint thickness on structural areas. If they refuse to put the car on a lift, treat that as an answer in itself.

Odometer tampering is a common risk in the global used car industry. We verify the data by extracting transmission mileage from the OBD computer, checking the most recent maintenance record's mileage, and consulting the national traffic management app for annual inspection records. If there are irreconcilable discrepancies or conflicts in the data, we classify it as a tampered vehicle and refuse to export it.

Rules differ by country. Many markets limit the age of imported used cars (commonly 3-5 years), require left-hand drive, and set minimum emission standards such as Euro 4, 5 or 6. Some regions additionally require a local conformity certificate before the car arrives. Practical steps before any deposit: check your customs authority's official website, or spend 20 minutes with a local customs broker who imports vehicles regularly; give the exporter your country's requirements and the VIN, and ask for proof of the car's emission level (China's standards map roughly to Euro equivalents); confirm the exact model was legally exportable from China. A short verification call at the start can prevent the car being refused entry — or impounded — months later.