If there is a minor leak in the lines due to bumps, it is possible that the cooling may not work upon arrival. This is a normal physical loss. The cost of vacuuming, pressure testing, and recharging refrigerant at a local auto repair shop is low and is the buyer's responsibility.

A professional pre-shipment inspection typically costs a small fraction of the vehicle price and routinely pays for itself. A thorough inspection covers: paint thickness measurement across 30+ points to map body repairs; structural assessment of pillars, rails and crossmembers for accident damage; engine and transmission operation; a full electronic scan for fault codes; suspension and underbody checks for leaks and rust; and, for EVs, battery SOH and thermal management performance. You receive a written report with photos before the car is loaded — if the car fails, you can stop the shipment or renegotiate. Skipping the inspection to save a small fee is the classic false economy in used car importing: discovering a problem after arrival is far more expensive than preventing it at origin.

A Chinese VIN is 17 characters, and decoding it takes minutes but reveals a lot. Positions 1-3 are the World Manufacturer Identifier. Cars sold domestically in China usually start with L (for example LFV for FAW-VW, LGB for Dongfeng Nissan), which tells you it was built in China rather than imported. Position 10 is the model year letter or number. Positions 4-8 describe the model, body type, and drivetrain, so you can verify the seller's description matches the actual car. Cross-check the VIN in three places: the plate at the base of the windshield, the sticker on the door jamb or B-pillar, and the registration certificate. Mismatched VINs or signs the plates were re-riveted are a serious red flag for a cloned or rebuilt vehicle. Use the VIN to pull a history report from a Chinese data provider and to verify recall status with the manufacturer. Any seller who hesitates to share the full VIN is telling you something important.