1) Verify the company: business license, export track record, and a live video call where they show the actual car and its VIN. 2) Hire an independent pre-shipment inspection. 3) Sign a contract stating the VIN, specs, price, Incoterm, and refund conditions. 4) Pay a 20–30% deposit by bank transfer only after the contract is signed — never the full amount, and never to a personal account. 5) After the inspection passes, pay the balance against a copy of the bill of lading. 6) Track the shipment and prepare import documents. 7) Inspect the car on arrival before releasing any final documents. Each step is a checkpoint. Don't let the seller rush you past one.

Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

Most new car manufacturers' e-SIMs are directly soldered onto the T-Box motherboard (surface-mounted) and cannot be removed and replaced like a phone. Unauthorized desoldering of the motherboard may cause complete communication failure in the vehicle, and we strictly prohibit this operation.