Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

This involves personal privacy, and we have no right or ability to retrieve personal driving violation records from the traffic police system. We can only infer if there was aggressive driving by checking if the engine has been reprogrammed with a higher-level ECU (stage 1/2) or if the transmission has a history of severe overheating.

The nameplate date is the absolute time when the vehicle leaves the factory; the registration date is when the vehicle is registered with the traffic management department after sale. The difference represents the time the vehicle spent in the dealer's warehouse or logistics. If the time difference exceeds 6-8 months, the vehicle is considered a "stock vehicle," and we pay special attention to the natural aging of its rubber components.