Battery condition is the single most important — and most expensive — variable in a used EV. Ask for a State of Health (SOH) report: in China, dealers and authorized service centers can read it via the manufacturer diagnostic system. It shows remaining capacity as a percentage of the original. Rule of thumb: above 90% is excellent, 85-90% is acceptable for the price, below 80% needs a serious price cut or battery refurbishment. Also get the battery's full charge and discharge history (次数) — a 3-year-old car with 800 fast-charge cycles has lived a harder life than one with 200. Physically, inspect the battery pack enclosure on a lift for dents, corrosion, or coolant leaks. Check that DC fast charging works during a test charge. Finally, verify the battery is not covered by an open recall or replacement program — this is both a risk and sometimes a free upgrade.

Most new car manufacturers' e-SIMs are directly soldered onto the T-Box motherboard (surface-mounted) and cannot be removed and replaced like a phone. Unauthorized desoldering of the motherboard may cause complete communication failure in the vehicle, and we strictly prohibit this operation.

China's vehicle data is less centralized than in the US or Europe, but you can still verify a lot: 1. Ask the exporter for the VIN and order a third-party history report from Chinese services; they aggregate insurance claims and repair records. 2. Cross-check the registration date on the title with the odometer—a 3-year-old car showing 30,000 km but registered as a ride-hailing vehicle is a red flag. 3. Request maintenance records from the brand's dealer network; digital records are increasingly common. 4. Verify the seller legally owns the car: the registration certificate name should match the exporter's business license. Gaps are common, so treat the history report as one input, not proof. Combine it with an independent pre-purchase inspection, and hold back part of the payment until the inspection passes.