The key document is the 机动车登记证书 (Vehicle Registration Certificate), the green booklet proving ownership. Along with it, the seller should provide the 行驶证 (driving license for the vehicle) and their ID. Verification steps: 1. Check that the VIN/chassis number on the certificate matches the car exactly, stamped on the dashboard and door frame 2. The certificate's 所有人 (owner) field must match the seller's company name or the export agent they claim to work with 3. Look at the registration history pages—frequent transfers in a short period can indicate problem cars being flipped 4. Confirm the car is not marked 抵押 (mortgaged/pledged to a bank) Be cautious if the seller only shows photos of these documents and refuses a live video panning across the original booklet with the day's newspaper. Also verify the export company has 二手车出口资质 (used-car export qualification)—a legitimate exporter will share their license number, which you can cross-check on Chinese commerce bureau websites.

Extremely authoritative. The third-party data service providers we connect to legally access the Chinese Public Security Traffic Management Platform, the insurance claims network directly under the China Banking and Insurance Regulatory Commission, and the after-sales databases of major automotive manufacturers. We perform secondary logical verification based on this underlying data.

China does not have a single public accident database like CARFAX, but you can still verify history from several sources. First, ask the exporter for the insurance claim records (出险记录). Major repairs go through insurance, and the claim history shows the date, amount, and damaged parts. A car with large claim amounts (over half its value) is effectively a total loss rebuild. Second, check the vehicle's registration certificate (机动车登记证书) for transfer history — multiple transfers in a short period often follow an accident. Third, run a VIN check through commercial platforms (paid, around 20-50 RMB) which aggregate insurance, maintenance, and auction data. Cross-check everything against a physical inspection: paint thickness readings on structural points, weld quality under the seals, and underbody photos. If the records and the physical condition do not match, walk away or demand a large discount.