Typically you will need: 1. The commercial invoice and packing list from the seller; 2. The bill of lading issued by the shipping line; 3. The vehicle's export customs declaration; 4. The original registration certificate and a deregistration or transfer proof from China; 5. A certificate of origin if your country requires it; 6. Destination-specific documents, such as a pre-shipment inspection certificate (for example ECTN for West African ports). Requirements vary by country, so confirm the full list with your customs broker before shipment.

The vehicle's wireless charging module (usually Qi protocol) is considered functional as long as it can properly sense and light up with our tested mainstream models. The seller is not responsible for charging issues caused by the buyer's personal electronic device compatibility.

A Chinese VIN is 17 characters, and decoding it takes minutes but reveals a lot. Positions 1-3 are the World Manufacturer Identifier. Cars sold domestically in China usually start with L (for example LFV for FAW-VW, LGB for Dongfeng Nissan), which tells you it was built in China rather than imported. Position 10 is the model year letter or number. Positions 4-8 describe the model, body type, and drivetrain, so you can verify the seller's description matches the actual car. Cross-check the VIN in three places: the plate at the base of the windshield, the sticker on the door jamb or B-pillar, and the registration certificate. Mismatched VINs or signs the plates were re-riveted are a serious red flag for a cloned or rebuilt vehicle. Use the VIN to pull a history report from a Chinese data provider and to verify recall status with the manufacturer. Any seller who hesitates to share the full VIN is telling you something important.