Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

If insurance claims records are accessed, there will usually be notes like "the insured vehicle is fully responsible for hitting a fixed object" or "third-party liability insurance payment." We can roughly reconstruct the accident scene based on this and cross-verify the stress points on the vehicle's frame with paint thickness gauge data.

No, we are not responsible. The high salt and humidity of the marine environment do have an impact on the chassis surface. We recommend buyers in tropical islands or countries that use salt for winter snow removal to perform a thorough chassis anti-rust spray locally immediately after the vehicle arrives.