Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

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Request a live video call during the test drive rather than a pre-recorded one. Cold start first: listen for rattling or metal scraping in the first seconds — possible timing chain or hydraulic lifter issues. During acceleration, a whining from the gearbox area can mean bearing wear; hesitation or jerking in an automatic suggests transmission problems. Braking: the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Turn the wheel fully in both directions and listen for clicking — a classic CV joint fault. Insist on a highway segment too: vibrations above 100 km/h often point to unbalanced wheels or bent rims. Ask the driver to film the dashboard throughout — warning lights that flicker on briefly are still faults that OBD will record.