Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

We cannot privately forge or re-stamp the original vehicle nameplate (this is illegal). If the nameplate is unclear, we will rely on the clear VIN on the windshield and the engine stamp as supplementary proof, and we will warn you of this risk before shipping.

Many car owners do not have their first maintenance done at authorized dealerships, leading to gaps in early data. In such cases, we do not blindly trust the odometer; instead, we analyze the tire production dates and wear levels, as well as the depth of grooves on the brake disc edges, using the "gold standard" of physical wear to infer the intensity of early use.