RoRo (roll-on/roll-off): the cheapest per car for running vehicles. Cars are driven onto the vessel and secured on decks. Transit to major ports (Jebel Ali, Rotterdam, Karachi) takes 15 to 35 days. Downside: cars are exposed to weather and salt air, and minor handling scratches happen occasionally. Container (20ft/40ft): one 40ft high-cube fits one car with parts, or two small cars with racking. Cost is higher than RoRo but cars are sealed and protected. Best for high-value vehicles, EVs (battery safety rules often require container), or when shipping spare parts together. Flat rack: for oversized vehicles (trucks, buses, modified cars). Priced per dimensions. Practical advice: for a standard used car to a port with RoRo service, choose RoRo and add marine insurance (0.3%–0.8% of value). If your destination lacks RoRo calls or you ship an EV, use a container. Always get the booking confirmation and bill of lading copy before paying the final balance.

A structured live video inspection can catch most mechanical problems. Ask the seller to do the following in order: Cold start: film the engine bay before starting — check for leaks, cracked hoses, and corrosion. Then start from cold and listen for rattling or knocking during the first minute; abnormal noises on cold start often mean worn internals. Fluids: pull the oil dipstick — milky or foamy oil suggests head gasket issues. Check coolant color and level. Transmission: with the car warmed up, film each gear shift, forward and reverse. Hesitation, harsh jerks, or slipping RPM are red flags. Brakes: test at low speed in a safe area — the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Tires: walk around and film each tire's sidewall and tread. Uneven wear suggests alignment or suspension problems. Combine this with an independent pre-shipment inspection for a professional report — the video call is your first filter, not the final verdict.

Request a live video call during the test drive rather than a pre-recorded one. Cold start first: listen for rattling or metal scraping in the first seconds — possible timing chain or hydraulic lifter issues. During acceleration, a whining from the gearbox area can mean bearing wear; hesitation or jerking in an automatic suggests transmission problems. Braking: the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Turn the wheel fully in both directions and listen for clicking — a classic CV joint fault. Insist on a highway segment too: vibrations above 100 km/h often point to unbalanced wheels or bent rims. Ask the driver to film the dashboard throughout — warning lights that flicker on briefly are still faults that OBD will record.