Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

This involves personal privacy, and we have no right or ability to retrieve personal driving violation records from the traffic police system. We can only infer if there was aggressive driving by checking if the engine has been reprogrammed with a higher-level ECU (stage 1/2) or if the transmission has a history of severe overheating.

Plan for roughly 25-40% on top of the vehicle price. The main items are: 1. Pre-purchase: deposit (10-30%), third-party inspection fee (100-300 USD). 2. In China: inland trucking to the port, export declaration fees. 3. Shipping: ocean freight (container 20ft usually 1,500-4,000 USD depending on destination), marine insurance (about 0.3-0.5% of car value). 4. In your country: customs duty, VAT/GST, port handling and storage, customs broker, quarantine or pre-shipment inspection if required, registration and plates. Always ask the exporter for an itemized landed-cost estimate for your specific port before paying the deposit, and confirm which Incoterm the quote is based on (FOB, CIF or DDP makes a big difference).