Odometer fraud exists everywhere, but cross-checking several data points makes it hard to fake: 1) Maintenance records: ask for service history with mileage entries. Gaps or resets are red flags. 2) Tire wear: a car showing 30,000 km should not have nearly bald tires. Compare tread depth against the claimed mileage. 3) Pedals, steering wheel, and seat bolsters: heavy wear on these with low odometer readings is a classic mismatch. 4) Diagnostic scan: request an OBD readout. Many control modules store mileage data internally — if the ECU shows 120,000 km while the dash shows 40,000, you have your answer. 5) Vehicle history report: in China, apps and platforms can pull insurance claim records and registration history, which often reveal the true mileage trail. Always request a live video showing the odometer with the engine running, and have the number written into your contract.

This is considered a force majeure risk. We will require the vehicle's state of charge (SOC) to be maintained in a safe dormant range of 30%-50% before loading, and we will insure you for all marine risks under CIF terms. If the battery suffers thermal runaway total loss due to abnormal cargo hold temperatures, the insurance company will compensate.

Battery health is the single biggest risk when buying a used Chinese EV remotely. Ask for a battery report showing state of health (SOH) and cell voltage balance from the car's BMS or a diagnostic scan — anything below 85% SOH deserves a price reduction or a pass. Check fast-charge counts and whether the pack has warranty remaining; many Chinese EVs carry 8-year/150,000 km battery warranties that may or may not transfer. Verify real-world range from energy consumption history rather than the dashboard estimate. Also confirm the on-board charger works with your country's voltage, and ask whether the connected app and OTA updates will remain accessible in your region before you pay.