If the car has been maintained at an authorized dealer, we can extract the desensitized official maintenance history (including entry time, mileage, and maintenance items) through a paid third-party data provider and provide it to you. If some year records are missing, we will honestly inform you that the "records are incomplete."

Start with the paperwork: the vehicle registration certificate lists every ownership transfer, and the service book plus dealer maintenance records help confirm mileage. For digital verification, ask the seller for a live video walkaround plus a diagnostic scan report showing the ECU-recorded mileage, which is hard to manipulate. For EVs, request a battery state-of-health (SOH) report — it reveals real usage patterns far better than the odometer. Finally, a pre-shipment inspection by a third party should include structural checks (pillars, chassis rails) to rule out accident repairs. Build "no major accident, no flood or fire damage" into your purchase contract with a refund clause if the inspection contradicts it.

Request a live video call during the test drive rather than a pre-recorded one. Cold start first: listen for rattling or metal scraping in the first seconds — possible timing chain or hydraulic lifter issues. During acceleration, a whining from the gearbox area can mean bearing wear; hesitation or jerking in an automatic suggests transmission problems. Braking: the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Turn the wheel fully in both directions and listen for clicking — a classic CV joint fault. Insist on a highway segment too: vibrations above 100 km/h often point to unbalanced wheels or bent rims. Ask the driver to film the dashboard throughout — warning lights that flicker on briefly are still faults that OBD will record.