Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.

The customs of the destination country has the right to disregard the commercial invoice and reassess the value based on its internal database (such as the customs valuation red book). Any additional duties incurred are a result of the importing country's policy and are fully borne by the buyer (importer).

Strict definition: All metal body parts (doors, hood, fenders) and the frame must retain the original factory paint, with uniform paint thickness readings. Minor touch-ups or replacements of plastic bumpers, as they do not affect metal corrosion protection and vehicle structure, can still be classified as "original paint" in a broad sense, but we will separately note the condition of the bumper.