The key document is the 机动车登记证书 (Vehicle Registration Certificate), the green booklet proving ownership. Along with it, the seller should provide the 行驶证 (driving license for the vehicle) and their ID. Verification steps: 1. Check that the VIN/chassis number on the certificate matches the car exactly, stamped on the dashboard and door frame 2. The certificate's 所有人 (owner) field must match the seller's company name or the export agent they claim to work with 3. Look at the registration history pages—frequent transfers in a short period can indicate problem cars being flipped 4. Confirm the car is not marked 抵押 (mortgaged/pledged to a bank) Be cautious if the seller only shows photos of these documents and refuses a live video panning across the original booklet with the day's newspaper. Also verify the export company has 二手车出口资质 (used-car export qualification)—a legitimate exporter will share their license number, which you can cross-check on Chinese commerce bureau websites.

A Certificate of Origin (C/O) is an official document stating where the vehicle was manufactured. Customs authorities use it to decide which tariff rates and trade agreements apply to your import. Why it matters: many countries offer preferential tariffs for certain origins. With a valid C/O, such as the ASEAN-China Form E or a GSP Form A, you may pay reduced or zero duty. Without it, you typically pay the standard, higher rate. The certificate must match the vehicle exactly: VIN, make, model and invoice details. It is usually issued by the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT) or customs authorities. Practical tips: request the C/O before shipment, because adding it later is slow; check that your country's customs accepts the specific C/O format; and confirm with your broker whether your vehicle category qualifies for preferential rates. This single document can save you thousands in duty.

Interior wear is harder to fake than an odometer and often reveals true usage better than any document. Focus on high-contact points the seller rarely restores. The driver's seat bolster shows creasing and cracking by 80,000-100,000 km even with covers. Steering wheel leather polishes smooth and darkens with hand oils; a shiny wheel with low claimed mileage is a red flag. Pedal rubbers wear through at similar rates — check accelerator, brake, and clutch depth. Second-row wear patterns tell you how the car was used: heavy child-seat indentations suggest family use (usually gentler), while uniform rear wear with clean front suggests commercial or ride-hailing duty. Check seat rails for rust (indicates water ingress) and look under floor mats for moisture staining or musty smell — flood cars often hide it there. Also examine the infotainment and instrument cluster: Chinese EVs log usage data internally, and a dealer diagnostic readout can cross-check driving hours against mileage. Request close-up, well-lit photos of these specific points during your live video inspection rather than relying on the seller's gallery.