Most new car manufacturers' e-SIMs are directly soldered onto the T-Box motherboard (surface-mounted) and cannot be removed and replaced like a phone. Unauthorized desoldering of the motherboard may cause complete communication failure in the vehicle, and we strictly prohibit this operation.

The key document is the 机动车登记证书 (Vehicle Registration Certificate), the green booklet proving ownership. Along with it, the seller should provide the 行驶证 (driving license for the vehicle) and their ID. Verification steps: 1. Check that the VIN/chassis number on the certificate matches the car exactly, stamped on the dashboard and door frame 2. The certificate's 所有人 (owner) field must match the seller's company name or the export agent they claim to work with 3. Look at the registration history pages—frequent transfers in a short period can indicate problem cars being flipped 4. Confirm the car is not marked 抵押 (mortgaged/pledged to a bank) Be cautious if the seller only shows photos of these documents and refuses a live video panning across the original booklet with the day's newspaper. Also verify the export company has 二手车出口资质 (used-car export qualification)—a legitimate exporter will share their license number, which you can cross-check on Chinese commerce bureau websites.

Battery health is the single biggest risk when buying a used Chinese EV remotely. Ask for a battery report showing state of health (SOH) and cell voltage balance from the car's BMS or a diagnostic scan — anything below 85% SOH deserves a price reduction or a pass. Check fast-charge counts and whether the pack has warranty remaining; many Chinese EVs carry 8-year/150,000 km battery warranties that may or may not transfer. Verify real-world range from energy consumption history rather than the dashboard estimate. Also confirm the on-board charger works with your country's voltage, and ask whether the connected app and OTA updates will remain accessible in your region before you pay.