We use two steps: 1. Insert a medical-grade endoscope through the spark plug hole to visually inspect cylinder wall scratches and carbon buildup on the piston top; 2. Extract an engine oil sample to check for large metal debris or emulsification (caused by coolant leakage).

The technician will start the vehicle and turn on the air conditioning system, measuring the actual temperature at the vents at the lowest and highest settings with a thermometer; at the same time, they will connect a manifold pressure gauge to check if the refrigerant pressure in the high and low pressure lines is within the normal range, determining if there is a chronic refrigerant leak.

For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.