Fake or recycled inspection reports are a real risk. Verify authenticity before wiring the balance payment. First, match the VIN: the report must show the full VIN, and the photos must include close-ups of the VIN plate on the chassis and the windshield tag. Ask for a live video call where the inspector walks to the car, shows the VIN tag, and then pans across the dashboard, odometer, and any defects noted in the report—on the same call. Check metadata: ask for original photos rather than screenshots. Files sent via WeChat often strip EXIF, so request the inspector to email originals or use a cloud link where timestamps and GPS data are visible. Cross-verify details: the odometer reading in the video should match the report exactly, and paint-thickness readings should be reproducible—ask the inspector to re-measure 2-3 spots live. Use a known inspection company rather than one recommended solely by the seller, and pay the inspector directly. An independent inspector has no incentive to hide defects.

We will directly check the registration certificate (the big green book) and count the number of changes.

A typical safe flow looks like this: 1. Sourcing: you pick a car from listings; the exporter confirms availability, sends photos, video and a condition report. 2. Contract: a written sales contract stating VIN, price, included costs, inspection standards and delivery terms (FOB or CIF). 3. Deposit: usually 10–30% after you or a third party verify the car. Pay to a company account, never personal. 4. Inspection: independent pre-shipment inspection; you approve the report before shipping. 5. Balance payment: due before shipment, against copy of the bill of lading. 6. Shipping and documents: exporter sends original documents by courier; you track the vessel. 7. Arrival: your customs agent clears the car, you pay duties and collect it. Timeline: typically 3–8 weeks from deposit to arrival, depending on route. Any exporter pushing for 100% upfront payment should be treated as a red flag.