1) Verify the company: business license, export track record, and a live video call where they show the actual car and its VIN. 2) Hire an independent pre-shipment inspection. 3) Sign a contract stating the VIN, specs, price, Incoterm, and refund conditions. 4) Pay a 20–30% deposit by bank transfer only after the contract is signed — never the full amount, and never to a personal account. 5) After the inspection passes, pay the balance against a copy of the bill of lading. 6) Track the shipment and prepare import documents. 7) Inspect the car on arrival before releasing any final documents. Each step is a checkpoint. Don't let the seller rush you past one.

Vehicles sold domestically in China only have the "Environmental Information List" and the "Vehicle Qualification Certificate," which are not the COC of the European system. We will provide a notarized English translation of the Chinese qualification certificate. If local customs strictly require the original European COC, the vehicle will not be able to clear customs.

A Chinese history report (查博士, 精真估, or 4S-shop records) usually contains several sections. Here's how to read them. Accident records: entries tagged 重大事故 (major accident) or listings at an insurance payout above 30% of the car's value are serious red flags. Airbag deployment is a deal-breaker for most buyers. Mileage timeline: check that mileage increases logically between service visits. A sudden drop between two dates means odometer tampering—walk away. Ownership count: more than 3 owners in 5 years suggests a problem car. Also check the 使用性质 field: a car registered as 营运 (commercial/taxi use) has a much shorter legal lifespan. Maintenance entries: consistent 4S dealership records are a good sign; long gaps aren't necessarily fatal if the owner used independent shops, but ask for receipts. Cross-check the report against the VIN plate, registration certificate, and physical inspection. If the report shows no accidents but paint thickness readings say otherwise, trust the metal, not the paper.