Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.

Before export, we perform a standard external wash and interior vacuuming to meet basic hygiene inspection requirements by customs. However, we do not engage in deceptive "refurbishments" (such as repainting large areas with cheap paint or using low-quality interior refurbishing agents) to preserve the vehicle's true physical condition for buyer assessment.

Usually yes, but with conditions. The seller must transfer the vehicle's account binding to you — without that, the app stays locked to the previous owner. Ask for a screen recording showing the unbinding and re-binding process. OTA updates and remote functions depend on the manufacturer keeping servers accessible from your region. Most major brands now support overseas accounts, but features like voice assistants or map data may be limited outside China. In-car navigation may default to Chinese maps, so plan to use Android Auto, CarPlay, or phone mirroring instead. Before purchase, confirm with the exporter in writing: which connected functions work in your country, and whether a regional account conversion is included in the price.