We thoroughly rule them out by checking if the cabin wiring harness is melted, if the seat belts have water stains or mold, if there is unusual rust or debris in the seat tracks and cigarette lighter, and by verifying with the insurance company for any "total loss claims." These two types of cars are an absolute sales ban for us.

A structured live video inspection can catch most mechanical problems. Ask the seller to do the following in order: Cold start: film the engine bay before starting — check for leaks, cracked hoses, and corrosion. Then start from cold and listen for rattling or knocking during the first minute; abnormal noises on cold start often mean worn internals. Fluids: pull the oil dipstick — milky or foamy oil suggests head gasket issues. Check coolant color and level. Transmission: with the car warmed up, film each gear shift, forward and reverse. Hesitation, harsh jerks, or slipping RPM are red flags. Brakes: test at low speed in a safe area — the pedal should feel firm, not spongy, and the car must not pull to one side. Tires: walk around and film each tire's sidewall and tread. Uneven wear suggests alignment or suspension problems. Combine this with an independent pre-shipment inspection for a professional report — the video call is your first filter, not the final verdict.

Obtaining precise internal resistance at different SOC levels requires disassembling the battery pack and connecting it to a professional charge-discharge cabinet for several days of cycling tests. This is beyond the scope of non-destructive used car inspections; we only provide real-time estimated internal resistance data based on OBD port readings.