Rust is one of the most underestimated problems in remote buying. Request specific evidence: photos of the underbody, wheel arches, door sills, and around the windshield seal; close-ups of suspension mounting points; and ideally paint thickness readings across panels (factory paint is typically 80-120μm; heavy patches suggest bodywork). Northern Chinese cars may have winter road-salt corrosion; coastal cars can show surface rust on exposed metal. Surface rust on exhaust and bolts is normal—structural rust on frame rails, subframes, or brake lines is a deal-breaker, especially if the car is headed to a humid or coastal market. Have the inspector tap suspicious areas during the video call: flaky or bubbling metal sounds hollow. Walk away if the seller refuses underbody photos.

The 12V battery is small but critical: when it dies, the car cannot start, unlock, or charge. Used EVs often have weak 12V batteries because they sit on lots for months. Before shipping, ask the exporter to: 1. Measure the battery voltage after the car has rested overnight. It should read around 12.4-12.8V; anything under 12.2V means the battery is degraded. 2. Start the car and check that the charging system holds 13.8-14.4V, confirming the DC-DC converter works. 3. Scan for stored fault codes related to low voltage, which indicate the battery has been deeply discharged repeatedly. During ocean freight, the battery slowly self-discharges. Ask that it be disconnected or kept on a maintainer before loading, and budget for a replacement after arrival if the battery is over 3 years old. A new 12V battery costs little compared to being stranded at the port.

If the buyer's country is under international sanctions, or if the buyer fails to provide a legitimate source of funds leading to the bank returning the payment, all transfer fees and exchange rate losses incurred during this period are to be borne entirely by the buyer.