Electrical faults are among the most annoying problems to discover after import, because they rarely stop the car from running. Ask the seller for a live video walkthrough testing each item: all four windows up and down, sunroof open/close, central locking (including with the key and remote), infotainment touchscreen, Bluetooth pairing, all cameras (reversing and 360-degree if fitted), parking sensors, interior and exterior lights, and the horn. Also watch the dashboard during startup: every warning light should illuminate briefly and then go out. A light that never appears, or stays on, tells you something needs attention. Pair this with an OBD scan to catch stored fault codes the seller might not mention. If a feature "only works sometimes," assume it is broken and price the repair into your offer.

Under CIF terms, the beneficiary of the insurance policy will be endorsed to the buyer. Once the claim is successful, the insurance company's foreign currency compensation will be directly deposited into the buyer's designated overseas company or personal account.

RoRo (roll-on/roll-off) is cheaper and faster for a single car—you drive it onto the vessel and it is secured on the car deck. Container shipping costs more but offers better protection from weather, salt air, and handling damage, and allows you to load spare parts inside the car. Marine insurance is essential either way. Standard cover protects total loss and major damage, but read the exclusions: many policies do not cover pre-existing mechanical faults, cosmetic scratches below a deductible, or damage caused by improper securing (lashings). Ask for ICC(A) or All Risks coverage rather than basic total-loss-only policies. Practical tips: 1. Photograph and video the car thoroughly at loading, with the VIN visible 2. Note existing scratches on the bill of lading 3. Inspect immediately at destination—claims windows are often 3-7 days 4. For EVs, declare the battery; some insurers charge a supplement or exclude battery damage altogether