For gasoline cars, insist on a compression test: each cylinder should read within 10-15% of the others, and the actual values should match factory specs for that engine. A single low cylinder points to worn rings or valve problems that idle checks will never reveal. A leak-down test goes further. It pressurizes each cylinder and measures how much air escapes and where. Air hissing from the oil filler cap means ring wear; from the intake or exhaust means valve issues; bubbles in the radiator coolant mean a head gasket problem. This is the single most revealing test for engine condition. Also request OBD scan data with freeze-frame records, a coolant system pressure test (to catch hidden leaks), and an inspection of the timing belt or chain condition with service history. For electric vehicles, compression tests don't apply — instead ask for a battery health report from the BMS, motor insulation readings, and a road test logging any inverter or drive-unit fault codes. A written report with photos or video of each test is essential evidence for your records.

If the buyer's country is under international sanctions, or if the buyer fails to provide a legitimate source of funds leading to the bank returning the payment, all transfer fees and exchange rate losses incurred during this period are to be borne entirely by the buyer.

Definitely. Lifting the chassis is a mandatory part of our standards. The report will specifically show whether there are oil stains on the front and rear shock absorber cylinders, if the rubber boots of the lower control arm ball joints are torn, and if the steering tie rods are loose or deformed.