The standard set: commercial invoice, packing list, bill of lading, export customs declaration, certificate of origin, and a copy of the vehicle title/registration. How to verify: the bill of lading number should be trackable on the shipping line's website; the certificate of origin is verifiable through CCPIT's online system; and the VIN must match across all documents, the inspection report, and the car itself. Ask for scans of everything before paying the balance, and have a freight forwarder review the set. Mismatched VINs, missing title copies, or vague promises that "documents will follow" are red flags worth pausing the deal over.

A Chinese VIN is 17 characters, and decoding it takes minutes but reveals a lot. Positions 1-3 are the World Manufacturer Identifier. Cars sold domestically in China usually start with L (for example LFV for FAW-VW, LGB for Dongfeng Nissan), which tells you it was built in China rather than imported. Position 10 is the model year letter or number. Positions 4-8 describe the model, body type, and drivetrain, so you can verify the seller's description matches the actual car. Cross-check the VIN in three places: the plate at the base of the windshield, the sticker on the door jamb or B-pillar, and the registration certificate. Mismatched VINs or signs the plates were re-riveted are a serious red flag for a cloned or rebuilt vehicle. Use the VIN to pull a history report from a Chinese data provider and to verify recall status with the manufacturer. Any seller who hesitates to share the full VIN is telling you something important.

Currently, in most developing countries, there is a severe lack of deep repair capabilities for the three electric systems. We recommend that B2B car dealers must have basic electrical insulation testing capabilities.