Always rely on the original factory network data from the 4S store. Third-party platforms may have delays or errors when capturing data (such as incorrect VIN entry). In case of a conflict, we rely on physical verification of the actual vehicle to resolve the data discrepancies.
1) Verify the company: business license, export track record, and a live video call where they show the actual car and its VIN. 2) Hire an independent pre-shipment inspection. 3) Sign a contract stating the VIN, specs, price, Incoterm, and refund conditions. 4) Pay a 20–30% deposit by bank transfer only after the contract is signed — never the full amount, and never to a personal account. 5) After the inspection passes, pay the balance against a copy of the bill of lading. 6) Track the shipment and prepare import documents. 7) Inspect the car on arrival before releasing any final documents. Each step is a checkpoint. Don't let the seller rush you past one.
Rust is a deal-breaker that photos can hide, so be systematic. High-risk areas to check: 1. Underbody and frame rails—surface rust is normal, but flaking or bubbling paint means advanced corrosion 2. Wheel arches and rocker panels—these trap mud and salt 3. Door bottoms and the trunk floor—water collects here; lift the trunk mat and look for dampness or repair welds 4. Around the windshield and sunroof drains—leaks cause hidden rust in the A-pillars Ask the inspector to do a magnet test: filler-repaired areas won't hold a magnet, indicating past accident repairs. A paint thickness gauge reveals resprayed sections—uniform readings around 80-150 microns are normal; spikes over 300 suggest bodywork. Cars from northern China (salted roads in winter) or coastal cities need extra scrutiny on the underbody. If structural members show corrosion, walk away—repairs rarely restore original strength.
